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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2008 15:55:28 GMT -5
Hey guys! Anyone got any ice camo schemes for the Guard? I tried an ice camo scheme which was basically Fortress Grey undercoat, with Skull White on top of that. I then made little camo splotches of Shadow Grey and then painted the armor and Lasgun Space Wolves Grey, the armor and Lasgun look too plain and bright though, any ideas? Outline the armor? Mix it with a darker color? What does everyone think? Feel free to post any pics of snow warriors that you may have! Thanks!
-Adam
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2008 9:51:29 GMT -5
That depends, are you going ice cavern camo, ice field camo, frozen city camo, mountain-top camo?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 28, 2008 1:53:16 GMT -5
Ok so here it is. This is my prototype Winter Camo IG scheme. This is just a rough draft mind you. Well? What does everyone think? Does the armor need a different color? Does the camo look good? Should i outline and drybrush the armor with Shadow Grey like a did? Info! Please! :-D Thanks for the support! -Adam P.S. See the thing is, I have two Leman Russ tanks and that need to be airbrushed, but I'm not sure which to use, Urban or Winter. I've always wanted to make winter warriors, so if I choose to continue with the winter guard, you will see some badass snow camo tanks on these threads very soon >.<
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Post by Yeti's Yell on Jan 28, 2008 16:17:44 GMT -5
Me likey. It's standard and you know what it is. Are you planning on making terrain for your guys too or just rolling with the ice theme?
I ask because I knew I wanted Ice World but waited until I made the terrain first before I painted the guys so it was a lot easier to make them "match."
Thinking about what kind of setting they'll fight in goes a long way. My ice world guys fight on a polar world and so camo doesn't go very far, in fact, they have red gloves to aid short-range ID and hand signals in crap visibility. I looked at how mountaineers and polar explorers do things for ideas on how guys may look.
Tanks: I went winter disruption pattern all the way with my treads. Since most tanks stand out on snow it might be better to think about confusing the shooter than hiding from him/her/it.
Best,
Yeti's Yell
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Post by Woz on Jan 28, 2008 20:13:56 GMT -5
The camo scheme looks good, just give the figure a dark grey wash to bring out some of the detail.
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Post by ssgtdude (M.I.A) on Jan 28, 2008 23:00:25 GMT -5
WHy not look in the codex and check out the Cadian 122nd theme. It might be what you are looking for. I painted a baneblade for the local store in that paint scheme and on our ice board it really looks great.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2008 2:05:10 GMT -5
By the way ssgtdude, I loved your tutorial on painting the Baneblade, I'm using that advice for all of my tanks!
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Post by ssgtdude (M.I.A) on Jan 29, 2008 4:04:46 GMT -5
great to hear. Use a white clay as it is easier to remove than the colored crap. Trust me on this.
easiest way to remove the larger parts of the clay is to use a q-tip. Finer stuff just dip the q-tip in some alcohol and brush gently. Don't scrub it alcohol will strip paint if your not careful.
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Post by Yeti's Yell on Jan 31, 2008 9:54:51 GMT -5
neloangelo, Here is a pic of some of my artic guys around a Hellhound and my armor in disruption pattern, if it helps. Best, Yeti
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2008 13:16:19 GMT -5
yetistyell, that box looking thing over your sponson, is that a hunter killer? if so, that is awesome. your tanks are amazing. i love the extra armour on the one in front. and the searchlight, all awesome. you did a great job converting/painting
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2008 8:54:30 GMT -5
thats gotta be the coolest tanks ive ever seen! Do it like that!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2008 13:09:17 GMT -5
Yeah man, your tanks are amazing, how did you do the camo? Did you airbrush with a template or something?
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Post by Yeti's Yell on Feb 1, 2008 14:56:38 GMT -5
Tauguard, Thanks for the feedback. The "box" is the old style HK which I prefer to the new. neloangelo, The cammo is all freehand by eye. Just a steady brush, thinned paints and being careful to maintain a balance of white vs. the disruption pattern. You could probably use a mechanical pencil to lay it out loosely but you may have to dullcote that so the paint doesn't skate on the graphite. Once I just drew out the pattern first on paper to get the size right and cut it out, holding it up to the tank to get the lines right but after a tank and a half I had it down enough to go through the rest by eye. If you try something like this, be sure to put what you are painting up against anything else you painted the same way, so that it looks consistent and allows you to adjust as you go along. When painting on white it's almost impossible to cover up darker paint you've already put down. Let me know if you want any other info. Good luck with yer Ice IG! Best, Yeti Here's a side view of the disruption pattern for reference:
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Post by Deleted on Feb 4, 2008 4:53:04 GMT -5
I like the hunter killer missile on the exterminator. reacently i painted some ratlings with winter camo, and i noticed that the harder i tried to make the camo clean, the worse the result became. Ended up making random dots all over the model.
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Post by mccaptain on Feb 4, 2008 14:08:43 GMT -5
Yeti: On your tanks, how do you do the detail around the rivets and seems? I'm going to guess with an ink wash. If so How did you go about doing it? I've tried ink washes before but it ends up just smearing everywhere and looking bad. Great job by the way. Those are freaking amazing tanks.
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Post by Yeti's Yell on Feb 4, 2008 15:10:20 GMT -5
mccaptain: I have different color ink washes for the different color paints.
I say I used to make a wash of brown and ice blue ink for the white but GW discontinued the ice blue ink... b@stards. Anyway, I make a mix with whatever is suitable and add in a "lick" of dish washing detergent to break surface tension in the water. This lets the wash grab right up against the rivet or down in the groove instead of coalescing around the lowest point of the washed area or the perimeter of the wet washed area. Also, I use a medium liner brush and try to apply it as straight as vertical as I can. I keep a dry flat brush on hand (usually in my mouth) to grab loose wash right away as well. I'll only paint the wash on one side at a time, allowing for complete dryness before doing the top, bottom, front, back and other side on the same way.
It's always best to make teh wash looser with water and have to hit it again to darken it than to go too strong. In any event, a little goes a LONG way.
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Post by mccaptain on Feb 7, 2008 15:30:22 GMT -5
Thank you! I'll try that out.
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