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Post by Adkenpachi on May 8, 2012 8:34:45 GMT -5
Everyones always saying how much of a pain white is to paint, whats wrong with using wjite primer then giving it 2 coats of quite thick skull white?
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Post by krasimirova on May 8, 2012 9:45:29 GMT -5
Excatly that..
"2 coats of quite thick.."
Details are removed, brush strokes are visible and the paintjob looks sloppy..
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Post by Cosmic on May 8, 2012 10:08:21 GMT -5
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Post by Adkenpachi on May 8, 2012 10:25:52 GMT -5
I meant thicker than usual not undiluted  |
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Post by Adkenpachi on May 8, 2012 10:26:50 GMT -5
Silly phone >.<
+thanks for the info/link
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Post by 3ff3ct on May 8, 2012 12:00:33 GMT -5
I meant thicker than usual not undiluted Yes, it obscures the details. If you don't believe us, have a go! I dare you! ;D The problem with a white undercoat and then more white is also that the model ends up looking very flat. Some shading is needed, I usually use a wash and then a good few layers of very thin white over the top, for a silky smooth finish  Apparently though the 'new' paints make it easier to paint white, as there's a 'ceramite white' available which I think is like a foundation paint. I haven't tried it myself though so I can't comment on the accuracy of this. Saying that though, the more you do something, the easier it gets. After painting a White Scars army, I bet it's easy! |
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Post by Adkenpachi on May 8, 2012 14:26:18 GMT -5
Great il try the wash under fine layers in the next couple of days  |
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Post by 3ff3ct on May 8, 2012 14:53:25 GMT -5
I think patience is the key really, if you can take your time then you shouldn't have much trouble with it. Let us know how you get along!  |
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Post by Cosmic on May 8, 2012 15:46:15 GMT -5
Another good way is to start with Fortress Grey (I don't know the new name for it) and then Highlight with pure white.
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Post by optimat on May 8, 2012 16:52:08 GMT -5
Yes that light grey Foundation paint or bleached bone were my contribution, I found that to work well. I also used foundation paint brown and that worked okay for dirtier pieces of paper and reduced the need for a wash afterwards if you wanted that archaic look.
Now that I have my own pot of actual bleached bone, though, I must say I only really use the brilliant white for highlighting. This is not something you could work with when painting a White scars army I imagine.
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Post by Ganeos on May 9, 2012 15:26:48 GMT -5
Anybody tried the new line of Whites from GW ?
Namely Ceramite White (Base), White Scar (Layer) and Praxeti White (Dry).
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Post by krasimirova on May 10, 2012 10:31:37 GMT -5
Ceramite White is my go to colour.. <3 <-- and all that..
It is better than Skull white was, but still needs 2-3 layers to cover black.. If you just use it as a base for another colour (Yellow i'm looking at you!) then 1 layer is usually enough..
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Post by Adkenpachi on May 12, 2012 17:52:52 GMT -5
I was going to start a new thread but this fits in this conversation...
I tried to paint in lots of thin layers like ya'll said but it turned out worse than my first effort. What i did the first time (using my own common sense with a tiny bit of advice) was to slightly touch the paint with the nib of my brush then slightly touch my water mix (about 1/4pint of water with a thimble of fairy liquid) then i just give the mini one coat and it worked pretty good. It ran into the creveces and didnt remove any detail atall as far as the naked eye can see, is this a viable was of painting?
P.S. Before anyone says im only on about the main stage not wash or highlight.
P.P.S. Out of interest how much wash should one use?
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Post by Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four on May 12, 2012 18:18:23 GMT -5
P.P.S. Out of interest how much wash should one use? It depends on how intense you want the shading to be. When I'm painting flesh, or doing corrosion effects on my Necrons, I apply two layers of the Ogryn Flesh (not sure what the new name is) over the skin or metal areas I'm shading (waiting for each application to completely dry) prior to going back in and high lighting. The best advice I can give you is to experiment with the washes and figure out what works for you. |
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Post by 3ff3ct on May 13, 2012 3:01:38 GMT -5
Put a little bit on, you can always add more if it isn't enough. However, you can't take it off |
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Post by optimat on May 13, 2012 3:25:16 GMT -5
In my own experience, if your basecoat layers are running that much - i.e. they run away from the brush when you apply them to the model - then that's too much water. There will be a consistency between that and straight out of the pot paint and once you find it you'll be able to replicate it fairly easily.
It's true that you can (and I sometimes will) just dip from the paint pot into a jar of water but if you plan on doing a lot of one colour I suggest getting some sort of palette tray so you can get perhaps a brush load of paint, then a dab of water, and then at least with the palette you can add more water/more paint before applying it the model.
With washes I would suggest, as others have said, that start with less and build up. I water down the wash heavily for the first coat, allow that to dry, and then apply it thicker in areas that are suitable. This helps my scheme because it's a tan yellow, so the first wash stains it to the right deep tone, and the second adds the contrast.
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Post by 3ff3ct on May 13, 2012 10:00:49 GMT -5
I suggest getting some sort of palette tray so you can get perhaps a brush load of paint, then a dab of water, and then at least with the palette you can add more water/more paint before applying it the model. I have a bathroom tile. It was free. From a skip |
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Post by optimat on May 13, 2012 13:48:19 GMT -5
I used to use a tile too, but when rummaging around for stuff to start with I managed to find a proper palette tray. There's little difference, to be honest. The dips to help for the washes mind which on a tile would just run everywhere.
In short, anything and everything is good, just as a middle surface that the paint won't instantly start sticking to!
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Post by Adkenpachi on May 13, 2012 17:32:52 GMT -5
I have a small plastic plate stolen from my son, muahahaha |
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Post by treadiculous on May 14, 2012 4:40:15 GMT -5
I would answer the initial question with: very hard indeed! I think the way to go about white is to start with a bright white / very near white base coat and then shade it with careful use of washes (don't wash whole areas, just ifll the locations needed).. then apply thin coats for high-lighting to bring out the brightness. don't do this: commissar.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=howto&action=display&thread=11641&page=2 |
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