Is there really a difference?

[Adkenpachi]

Im failing to see whats different about foundation/base/dry... I use them all for the same job and they all look the same...



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[Cosmic]

I very much doubt you're using the Drybrush paint as a foundation layer though?

[Adkenpachi]

I just use the paint as paint cause i cant see any difference... Also all skin colours are "dry" -shrug-

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[Cosmic]

Hmmm well I've only used the new textred paint (which is rubbish) so I can't say more I supposed! Basically though, buy Vallejo

[AshotNINJA]

the foundation/ base paint is alot more paint like that dry, dry is really pigment heavy and (you guessed it) dry.... i find it hard to belive you paint with the dry paint straight from the pot (without thinning) it wouldnt apply very flat.

[Adkenpachi]

I use a touch of water with all my paints but the dry is a pain in the ass to use. Only tried it for the first time tonight as ive always made my own skin colour (badly), it seemed to go on ok and now too thick but its hard to tell cause the commisar i painted had a really thick undercoat spray

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[emptyhat]

Did you add water to the dry pot? I think that might mess up the pot.

The key to using dry paints is to not add water and not use them as a base or as a layer. You are using the heavy but loose pigmentation to take advantage of the model's raised areas.

[Adkenpachi]

No i never add water to a pot i have a mixing plate. Sooooo... What do you put on as a base layer for skin cause the only skin colours are "dry"... And yes i intend to buy vallejo in the future.

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[Pyrotechnics]

There are skin colours in the base section and the layer section... >.>

If you want an idea for flesh, I personally still use my old pot of Tallarn Flesh (which if I recall correctly is now Cadian Fleshtone according to the chart) and then wash it with Agrax Earthshade. Probably not the best way to do things, but it's quite quick and easy.

[Adkenpachi]

Bollocks, waste of money on that paint then I cant even dry brush

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[Adkenpachi]

So i got round to taking a picture but dont bother pointing out the poor paint job cause i can see its awful (the super fine detail brush is .. Well... Crap, thanks citadel) but you can clearly see all the detail on the face after just an undercoat of white primer and one layer of elf flesh dry... I dont see a problem with it.



P.S. I cant find a single picture online of this commisar... With an axe and hand flamer.

[emptyhat]

Drybrushing isn't too hard and it really makes a difference to your painting when you are still learning the finer points.

Lightly dab the brush in the paint (don't add any water or use the pallet, and use a brush that is actually dry). Use a bit of kitchen towel roll to remove most of the paint then lightly rub your brush over the part of the model you want to paint.

You are taking advantage of the model being 3d rather than flat but you can still use this on fairly flat parts of the model, like a great coat, to give a textured effect.

You mostly just need to practice removing the right amount of paint from the brush to get the effect you want, and applying the right amount of pressure when brushing over the area you are painting.

[Peter Cooman]

The pictures of that guy are easy to find man

catachan-freak.tripod.com/whats_in_catachan/index.album/commisar-w-flamer-and-axe?i=5

[Adkenpachi]

This is flying off topic now but i wont tell Do you dry brush AFTER washing? Propper noob question

[emptyhat]

I tend not to. Normally I use the wash to blend the two colours back together a bit. You can dry brush after washing to increase contrast or depth of the colour.

[TheHoboHunter]

Likewise. I find the wash can tone back the rough effect a drybrush often gives.

Then again, I don't usually drybrush anything on my current models except jagged metal, so I'm pretty out of the loop.

Hell, I still use Tallarn Flesh for my skin too.
Basecoat Tallarn Flesh, maybe a second coat if it needs evening.
Wash of Devlan Mud/Agrax Earthshade, or Ogryn Flesh if I want some variation.
Highlight w/ Tallarn Flesh again, if needed.

Simple.

[egon]

Well, if you're using drybrush paints to do tiny details there's no wonder it doesn't end up looking good.

Check out GW's site under the hobby section. They have tonnes of articles about painting that shows how to use different techniques. Many gaming websites also has painting tutorials.

[optimat]

Watch that video it gives you the basic idea. For 28mm models I usually find that you can do it on one pass quite easily - the video guy wipes a LOT of paint off the brush, I personally use a middle ground that just comes with practice and what feels right for you. For larger pieces though I usually do end up doing 2/3 passes of incredibly little paint because there's usually more large flat panel areas on larger models.

Now, as emptyhat said, the Dry paints are supposed to give you a better paint type for this to work. It's no surprise that you might want a more solid paint here as watered down acrylic will just well... paint from the brush and not give you the right effect.

As far as washing does I would agree with others in that drybrushing gives you a better base for washing afterwards rather than something you would do after. Washes are really just an easy (and effective!) way of shading a 3D shape. If you wash after you get a neutral-highlight-shade order which ends up looking more dirty which is good for wargaming miniatures because the shade will dominate. But again, this comes down to personal tastes. If you want bright looking models then it usually works better doing neutral-shade-highlight, or, if you plan on not using a wash and are good enough to paint accurately - shade-neutral-highlight, leaving the recesses alone.

This is my understanding anyway.

[Adkenpachi]

Youve all been helpful as ever thanks (no thats not sarcasm)

[emptyhat]

Cool. What you put into painting you get back out so if you practice and learn it won't be too long before you start getting praise for your stuff, which is pretty cool.