That is how I built my army. It really comes down to personal preference. I find it easier to get the army mostly painted before building it. Once it is built then I do the Washes/Drybrushing/Highlighting.
What you should do is paint something fully on the sprue, and something off the sprue. See what works best for you and go from there.
I am the one, camouflage and guns risk my life to keep my people from harm. Authority vested in me I sacrifice with my brothers in arms. Stay the course, reasonable force I believe I serve a greater good. Smoke and dust, enemies are crushed nothing left, where a man once stood. Locked and loaded voices screaming, let's go, come on do it, here we go.
The way I do it... Make them first, on some rear occasions you may want to leave bits off the model. Say a gun across the chest making detail difficult, but this is rear for me.
After the model is sorted, spray black (or White) I lie all the models in a row's on there fronts and spray them left to right, up and down, then flip them over and do it again, L-R U&D, and then stand them up L-R U&D.
Next.... I get whatever is the most amount of colour on the model as 'army painter' spray. While they are still standing up I coat them with it. The army painter spray gives a nice little highlight and depth (specially if you black wash them after). No need to lie down as you don't want to get in evry nook, trust army painter.
So that's your undercoat, base coat and drybrush in two cans.
My opinion on White... I never do White, my White, black, drybrush (or Sprey) dark grey, drybrush light grey, high light White. For your guys... if your going grey then I'd Black Sprey, then the darker of the grey army painter spray's then I would heavily dry brush the White areas Fortreas Grey (or whatever it's called now) and then highlight White. I'd then do all the detail, faces I usually do tanned flesh then a highlight of dwarf (or whatever they are called now) and then my own speshial black wash (5% chaos black, 5% Black wash, 90% H2O) then I base em.
Last Edit: Jun 30, 2012 19:19:36 GMT -5 by vulpine
Post by Colonel Grammissar Azalar on Jun 30, 2012 20:31:29 GMT -5
Well, I've certainly been shopping around for places that sell cans of spray paints (for undercoating, I'm not spending the expenses on the spray gun from Games Workshop, it's not in my wage allowance ¬_¬) but I'll give Halfords a look
And thanks for the advice so far, I'll certainly be looking to try some of these ideas out
I wouldn't go car undercoat... Just as I wouldn't paint my car with Gw Sprey paint or paint by living room walls with kids poster Paints. Car paint is designed with waterproofing a protection in mind, not fine detail. I'm not saying some have not had good results from a car paint, just that there must be better out there as they are designed for that job... You wouldn't use a bananna to hammer a nail in would you?
Car undercoat isn't designed with waterproofing in mind, sure it doesn't run when wet but neither does GW paint once dry. Car undercoat is what it says a coat to go under the base coat, if undercoat was water proof there'd be no need to for a lacquer coat.
That said I would only use car undercoat to undercoat my GW mini's
All I know is specially trained techs take ages to make paint formulas, that's cars paints, minatures, emulation, gloss, bathroom paint, anti fire paint, anti fungal paint, hammerright etc (I'm a painter and decorator by the way). I'm not saying it won't work but surly paint formulated for spraying models and giving a covering coat without losing detail would be better than a Sprey designed for something els.
I do admit that back in when 3rd ed 40k came out I got the new tactical squad and sprayed them with a car spray and they (dark angels) looked fantastic, it had tiny grains within the paint that made them really stand out.
Post by badgersplatter on Sept 7, 2012 2:27:06 GMT -5
I think the colour of your undercoat is all about the way you're going to paint afterwards. Some people start dark, then paint "up" with drybrushing and layers, others (myself included) start lighter and then shade downwards. If I undercoated black, I'd spend absolutely forever building up a strong light green over it, whereas if someone who paints upwards started with white, they'd get little gaps or light areas where there should be shade.
As far as sprue/model goes, it depends on your process and the build of the model.
Spraying on the sprue removes the risk of missing nooks when the model's built, but spraying the model speeds things up because you wont have to spray twice (once while on the sprue, again quickly to cover the cut areas).
If you're a 'paint arms separately' kind of person, I would definitely recommend spraying on the sprue.
Long story short I've done both and interchange. I tend to spray vehicles on the sprue, men on the built model. But then again I basecoat black then white from above, so my black is usually on the sprue, then once I've built the model I spray the white on top. The white stage kind of has to be when it's built or you don't get a consistent light source.