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Post by footslogger393 on Nov 26, 2012 9:10:58 GMT -5
Hello Guys,
i have just rush painted my army so i can play in campaign at warhammer world, really good fun but my painting sucks, my models looks crap, so i plan to strip the paint off all my models and start again,
i have read online that Fairy power spray is really good for getting paint off, has anyone got any experinces with this?
the colour scheme i'm going for is a simple urban camo look just using grey's and black,
i have been surfing the web people seem to use masking tape or blu tac to great some great looking tanks, but have anyone tried using the same techniques on troops?
or any advice on making great looking models without having to be an amazing painter?
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Post by Adkenpachi on Nov 26, 2012 10:03:27 GMT -5
Just be careful with a brush  Thouh ive never done camo. And as for stripping nothing works very well, nail varnish remover and a brass brush...i tried using the brass brush attatchdd to my rotery tool and found more damage than stripped paint... By hand is the way to go. As for plastic, i dont really know. Less time in the remover and a hard toothbrush is your best bet. |
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Post by emptyhat on Nov 26, 2012 10:42:20 GMT -5
I've used fairy spray, it works ok. How easy it is will depend a bit on how thick the paint is. You'll probably want and old toothbrush and maybe a pin.
Learning some of the basic stuff can make your models look a lot better without too much effort but without seeing them it is hard to know what to recommend.
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Post by footslogger393 on Nov 26, 2012 10:57:26 GMT -5
i will try to get some photo's up,
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Post by Gerner on Nov 26, 2012 11:00:48 GMT -5
Painting is 20% technique, 5% talent and 75% training and dedication. There is only one way to get better and that is to paint, paint and then paint some more. If you put all the effort you have into every guardsman you have - you will end up being a pretty good painter when done.  On the whole stripping thing. Unless you have painted you models very thickly, then just spray them over and restart. No need to remove the old. |
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Post by Cosmic on Nov 26, 2012 11:34:55 GMT -5
If you're in the UK, Superdrugs own Acetone Free Nail Varnish Remover is the key!! Trust me |
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Post by footslogger393 on Nov 26, 2012 11:47:33 GMT -5
Superdrugs Acetone Free Nail Varnish Remover, how do i use it?
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Post by footslogger393 on Nov 26, 2012 11:51:18 GMT -5
would any Acetone Free Nail Varnish Remover work?
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Post by Cosmic on Nov 26, 2012 11:52:33 GMT -5
Just pour some into an old tub (just enough to cover the models), I use Chinese Takeaway containers. Plonk the models in to soak for about 3 minutes, then get scrubbing with an old toothbrush. The Paint will bubble up and just fall off with little effort in about a minute. Just scrub them clean and then wash the now stripped models in warm water  It doesn't melt plastic models and works perfectly on metal too. It's the blue colour one if you go looking for it |
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Post by magot on Nov 26, 2012 11:53:00 GMT -5
Also very good is the use of Breakfluid used in cars.
be careful because it is not that healty, but is strips like hell and leaves your models untouched.
painting is patience, patience, patience, patience, patience, patience, patience, patience, a long interval, and finally patience.
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Post by Cosmic on Nov 26, 2012 11:53:23 GMT -5
would any Acetone Free Nail Varnish Remover work? I have heard some people having problems with other brands, that's why I recommend the Superdrug one, since I know it works, I use it all the time. |
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Post by Adkenpachi on Nov 26, 2012 13:43:20 GMT -5
Asdas own is ok but ima give superdrugs a go next |
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Post by badgersplatter on Nov 26, 2012 14:43:40 GMT -5
I used dettol to successful effect - no idea if it's better or worse than previous suggestions.
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Post by 3ff3ct on Nov 27, 2012 15:27:45 GMT -5
Dettol is less stinky, and stingy on the hands Use glove if stripping stuff, and an old tothbrush, as suggested, works a treat  As for the painting, I'd advise using base colours and washes for a 'quick fix' for gaming, and go back and add more detail as your confidence grows. Everyone was a beginner at some point and experienced the whole 'I Suck' phase, however we all worked through it and tried new techniques. The important thing is that you keep learning and painting, rather than focusing on the results. As you learn and practice more, your painting will improve Each model I paint is still better than the last, and I've been doing this hobby (with a bit of a break) for around a decade. That's a lot of hours of painting! And I'm still learning Keep going! |
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Post by Adkenpachi on Nov 27, 2012 19:47:34 GMT -5
Each model i paint is worse than the last, i still think the first one i ever did was my best :/
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Post by Soap on Nov 28, 2012 15:14:39 GMT -5
I found you get better results if you use less paint on your brush, and layer paints up from dark to light, then wash black. Experts would probably say that's the basics, or even wrong, but it's my limit of ability. when it comes to painting, I'm just very average to below average!
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Post by badgersplatter on Nov 29, 2012 12:43:19 GMT -5
Dettol dried out my hands and they went all peely.
It's much easier to paint well than to paint quickly. All the worst paint jobs I've seen are by impatient people who try to get around thinning their paints, try "tricks" to speed things up like excessive use of drybrushing, and not priming properly.
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Post by 3ff3ct on Dec 2, 2012 3:18:32 GMT -5
Dettol dried out my hands and they went all peely. It's much easier to paint well than to paint quickly. Oh dear, peely hands aren't cool. Gloves are a great option, even if they're stolen from a petrol station forecourt.... I totally agree that patience is a big determining factor. Golden Daemon models often have 100+ hours put into them, which is why my ~10 hour models don't even come close! And I've seen the other end of 'it took me 30 mins to paint'. Ewwww!  |
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Post by footslogger393 on Feb 21, 2013 8:23:38 GMT -5
hello guys,
i gave the Superdrugs Acetone Free Nail Varnish Remover, a go at cleaning models for paint, i tried it out on some tanks, i put some on cotton wool, and gave the model a good scrub and it worked really well, it was back to grey plastic really quickly but it did work to well in places and weakend the glue but thats fine,
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Post by egon on Feb 21, 2013 9:20:06 GMT -5
Dipping is a really easy way to get lots of models to look okay fast. Check my picture thread (in my sig) for some okay examples or find Yeti's thread for some really good ones.
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Post by Cosmic on Feb 21, 2013 17:12:58 GMT -5
hello guys, i gave the Superdrugs Acetone Free Nail Varnish Remover, a go at cleaning models for paint, i tried it out on some tanks, i put some on cotton wool, and gave the model a good scrub and it worked really well, it was back to grey plastic really quickly but it did work to well in places and weakend the glue but thats fine, Glad it worked, footslogger |
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Post by commissarbob on Feb 22, 2013 8:38:19 GMT -5
A painting method that is simple and easy to do even for beginners to attain good results is painting in washes. I am going to give a step by step on a simple way to do it, eventually I intend to do a full tutorial.
First, prime the miniatures white, let dry, and give it a black wash. When dry do a light dry brushing with white to highlight the raised areas. This will give you a nice grey scale foundation to paint on that will show through the thin washes giving the miniatures depth.
Next for black, do not actually paint it with black. Again using the black wash, take a fine brush and wash on a layer where you want black and let dry. If it is not dark enough, add another layer and so on. This will give your black areas depth without being just a block of black. For colors, take the paint you normally use and a medium to fine brush. Put just the tip of the bush into the paint and then dip the brush into water without swishing it around or knocking out the excess water. Apply the paint (now wash) where you want in general blocks of color. This will quickly get your miniatures painted and they will have depth and interest in just these couple of steps without having to do blending and other advanced techniques. The nice thing about this is that it will give you a nice base to work with, much like an underpainting, that you can go back and pick out details later like belts, pouches, etc. but in the meantime you have miniatures that look fairly nice and that fulfill the minimum paint requirements.
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Post by footslogger393 on Mar 1, 2013 9:59:49 GMT -5
Hello commissarbob,
sounds like a really easy method, have you got any photo's of the finished look?
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Post by commissarbob on Mar 2, 2013 10:44:51 GMT -5
Ok, so here are some Tau done up using the aforementioned technique. Working left to right you see the general wash bringing the black over all of the fabric areas and the panel lines. Next to that you see the white drybrush bringing everything out to a nice starting point. Because the color scheme is the black grey white urban not much had to be done here, just re-washing over the fabric to bring it closer to a black and then picking out the details using normal painting methods. Simple and relatively quick, it makes doing a large number a quick process.   I will be painting up some Guard using these methods and I will be sure to take step by step pictures. |
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Post by 3ff3ct on Mar 18, 2013 11:04:37 GMT -5
^ this is a great way of showing a simple and effective technique, nice one Bob Maybe doing one model and photographing it at the different stages would be easier next time? And close-ups would be cool too. |
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Thouh ive never done camo.
