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Post by Colonel Grammissar Azalar on Jun 30, 2012 18:00:40 GMT -5
1) Is it easier to undercoat while still on the sprue
2) My colour scheme is going to be grey cloth, white armour, black boots, raddaradda, is it better to go with white undercoating, or black?
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Post by BG. Foster on Jun 30, 2012 18:22:30 GMT -5
White under coat, its near impossible to paint white over black. As for spraying on the sprue, there is a chance you'll miss bits or even scratch the paint whilst removing bits from the sprue
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Post by Colonel Grammissar Azalar on Jun 30, 2012 18:31:28 GMT -5
Well, I was thinking about undercoating on the sprue, and then touching up any scratches/bits missed, but I wasn't sure if that was any better/easier than just assembling then undercoating
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Post by teku18 on Jun 30, 2012 18:49:29 GMT -5
That is how I built my army. It really comes down to personal preference. I find it easier to get the army mostly painted before building it. Once it is built then I do the Washes/Drybrushing/Highlighting.
What you should do is paint something fully on the sprue, and something off the sprue. See what works best for you and go from there.
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Post by vulpine on Jun 30, 2012 19:08:23 GMT -5
The way I do it... Make them first, on some rear occasions you may want to leave bits off the model. Say a gun across the chest making detail difficult, but this is rear for me.
After the model is sorted, spray black (or White) I lie all the models in a row's on there fronts and spray them left to right, up and down, then flip them over and do it again, L-R U&D, and then stand them up L-R U&D.
Next.... I get whatever is the most amount of colour on the model as 'army painter' spray. While they are still standing up I coat them with it. The army painter spray gives a nice little highlight and depth (specially if you black wash them after). No need to lie down as you don't want to get in evry nook, trust army painter.
So that's your undercoat, base coat and drybrush in two cans.
My opinion on White... I never do White, my White, black, drybrush (or Sprey) dark grey, drybrush light grey, high light White. For your guys... if your going grey then I'd Black Sprey, then the darker of the grey army painter spray's then I would heavily dry brush the White areas Fortreas Grey (or whatever it's called now) and then highlight White. I'd then do all the detail, faces I usually do tanned flesh then a highlight of dwarf (or whatever they are called now) and then my own speshial black wash (5% chaos black, 5% Black wash, 90% H2O) then I base em.
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Post by Woz on Jun 30, 2012 20:28:15 GMT -5
Use Grey undercoat from Halfords.
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Post by Colonel Grammissar Azalar on Jun 30, 2012 20:31:29 GMT -5
Well, I've certainly been shopping around for places that sell cans of spray paints (for undercoating, I'm not spending the expenses on the spray gun from Games Workshop, it's not in my wage allowance ¬_¬) but I'll give Halfords a look
And thanks for the advice so far, I'll certainly be looking to try some of these ideas out
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Post by Adkenpachi on Jul 1, 2012 3:24:59 GMT -5
I used amazon for some car undercoat
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Post by vulpine on Jul 1, 2012 3:51:29 GMT -5
I wouldn't go car undercoat... Just as I wouldn't paint my car with Gw Sprey paint or paint by living room walls with kids poster Paints. Car paint is designed with waterproofing a protection in mind, not fine detail. I'm not saying some have not had good results from a car paint, just that there must be better out there as they are designed for that job... You wouldn't use a bananna to hammer a nail in would you?
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Post by BG. Foster on Jul 1, 2012 4:09:32 GMT -5
Car undercoat isn't designed with waterproofing in mind, sure it doesn't run when wet but neither does GW paint once dry. Car undercoat is what it says a coat to go under the base coat, if undercoat was water proof there'd be no need to for a lacquer coat.
That said I would only use car undercoat to undercoat my GW mini's
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Post by vulpine on Jul 1, 2012 4:11:34 GMT -5
What I'm saying is each tool has a job
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Post by BG. Foster on Jul 1, 2012 4:22:58 GMT -5
Your right each tool has a job but how different is GW spray to a car spray? Do you have a GW spray to hand to check what it contains?
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Post by vulpine on Jul 1, 2012 4:51:57 GMT -5
All I know is specially trained techs take ages to make paint formulas, that's cars paints, minatures, emulation, gloss, bathroom paint, anti fire paint, anti fungal paint, hammerright etc (I'm a painter and decorator by the way). I'm not saying it won't work but surly paint formulated for spraying models and giving a covering coat without losing detail would be better than a Sprey designed for something els.
I do admit that back in when 3rd ed 40k came out I got the new tactical squad and sprayed them with a car spray and they (dark angels) looked fantastic, it had tiny grains within the paint that made them really stand out.
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Post by BG. Foster on Jul 1, 2012 4:55:49 GMT -5
I used to spray cars, mostly from a spray gun but sometimes from a can. I find car sprays to be more delicate as you only want a thin layer of paint.
This is purely personal opinion though and may be down to how well you can spray too
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Post by vulpine on Jul 1, 2012 5:12:58 GMT -5
As I say, I'm sure and I once found the car Spray works. I just play it more safe now.
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Post by Adkenpachi on Jul 1, 2012 6:07:16 GMT -5
I read one of the car sprays is what citadel use but relabel it... Not sure if thats the one i bought or not, i bought one recomended by 40k painters.
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Post by Woz on Jul 2, 2012 7:35:37 GMT -5
Acrylic undercoats are all pretty much the same. I've been using Halfords for about 15 years with no problems or adverse effects.
The coloured top coat spray paints for cars may cause problems but the undercoat is safe.
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Post by ElegaicRequiem on Jul 2, 2012 10:01:01 GMT -5
You wouldn't use a bananna to hammer a nail in would you? Depends on the nail. |
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Post by badgersplatter on Sept 7, 2012 2:27:06 GMT -5
I think the colour of your undercoat is all about the way you're going to paint afterwards. Some people start dark, then paint "up" with drybrushing and layers, others (myself included) start lighter and then shade downwards. If I undercoated black, I'd spend absolutely forever building up a strong light green over it, whereas if someone who paints upwards started with white, they'd get little gaps or light areas where there should be shade.
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Post by 3ff3ct on Sept 10, 2012 13:33:53 GMT -5
You wouldn't use a bananna to hammer a nail in would you? Depends on the nail. Or, inversly, the banana  I've used matt finish sprays before, the only problem being that it is further for me to travel to get a good can of spray paint than it is to my LGS. I've used Krylon and Montana, as well as the Halfords Primer Woz was on about. They work pretty well as long as you work a coat at a time and avoid gloss and laquer like the plague. There's also the fun coloured sprays from The Army Painter and Flames Of War, which give pretty decent coverage (especially the Army Painter ones). I'm certainly going to invest in a few cans next time I'm at Halfords or the art supplies shop, GW spray is so expensive it makes me want to cry  |
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Post by optimat on Sept 10, 2012 13:50:09 GMT -5
As far as sprue/model goes, it depends on your process and the build of the model.
Spraying on the sprue removes the risk of missing nooks when the model's built, but spraying the model speeds things up because you wont have to spray twice (once while on the sprue, again quickly to cover the cut areas).
If you're a 'paint arms separately' kind of person, I would definitely recommend spraying on the sprue.
Long story short I've done both and interchange. I tend to spray vehicles on the sprue, men on the built model. But then again I basecoat black then white from above, so my black is usually on the sprue, then once I've built the model I spray the white on top. The white stage kind of has to be when it's built or you don't get a consistent light source.
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