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Post by brocchus on Apr 2, 2013 18:45:04 GMT -5
TL;DR I need help coming up with a step by step painting guide.
I need help, fellow Guardsmen. I’ve already received some excellent advice on army building so I’m hoping I have the same success here. I could really use a painting guide for my dudes and vehicles, the more detailed the better. I am desperate, as my project has ground to a halt and I am reluctant to buy more until I at least start painting.
Even though I have two ancient WHFB armies this project is out of my comfort zone because it involves a half dozen elements that are new to me.
Vehicles
Weathering (oil, dust, and rust)
Resin bases
Vallejo paints
Pinning
Decals
My infantry is modified with Maxmini Guardsman Backpacks and Kolony Militia heads with Kolony HQ heads for sergeants and officers. I am using Desert Wasteland bases painted from Secret Weapon painted in the classic Gorkamorka scheme which will eventually be used for my terrain and table. The problem is, I am terrified to start painting my troops. I am good at following instructions, not so good at improvisation and picking my own colors.
The focal point of the model is going to be the face so the color of the gas mask and goggle lenses is important. I am toying with the eyes being a glowing blue, like the many plasma guns in the army (unless someone has a better idea). The Maxmini backpacks make a good secondary focal point, they really "pop" and are wodnerfully detailed.
I decided to go with a German WWII color scheme, picked up some Vallejo paints and here’s what I came up with.
Helmet, Flak Armor, Rifle Casing- German Field Gray
Fatigues- German Feldgrau
Backpack- German Camo Black Brown
Metal- ?
Goggles- ?
Gas Mask- ?
Aquilas- Bone white or grey white.
Boots and Web Gear- Black
Magazine Pouches- ?
Bayonet Sheaths- ?
Canteens- ?
The primary issue, besides what colors to use for highlights and shading, is the concern that the models will look “greyed out”. There’s just too much grey on the models. Secondly, I am not familiar with using Vallejo paints. I have only used Citadel and, having painted two armies with them, I am pretty comfortable with the range. I can switch to whatever paints work but be advised, I do not know how to use an airbrush.
I plan to paint my Secret Weapon Desert Wasteland bases in the classic Gorkamorka scheme which will eventually be used for my terrain and table.
black primer
Bestial Brown
wash with Chestnut Ink
drybrush Snakebite Leather
drybrush Bleached Bone
paint the rim Graveyard Earth.
That said, is this practical? Is there a way to replicate this (more or less) on a larger scale, say a Realm of Battle Gameboard?
Thanks in advance for your advice. If there's a way I can pay you back for your help, let me know. My project has ground to a halt!
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Post by macknight on Apr 2, 2013 21:36:22 GMT -5
To buy: FW powder set or Flames of war powder set from local hobby store; GW set of washes(especially the black, brown, and flesh), large soft but cheap flat or filbert brush sets, and matte clear acrylic from local Hobby Lobby. GW brush on gloss.
Overall instruction: clean mold lines, assemble parts but leave hard to paint areas unassembled, flock base with sand, primer black, light black wash to fill in missed areas, clear out areas of clogged paint with xacto knife, paint skin tones, none metallic colors, metallic colors, decal, powder, varnish, flock the bases.
Painting Vehicles: clean mold lines, assemble partially, magnetize weapon or wanted areas, prime black, use tape for camo pattern or drybrush on free hand, then the details, assemble parts as you go.
Decals: after the colors are done, brush on GW gloss varnish, when dry apply decal, when dry apply another coat of GW gloss and get underneath the decal to rid of the air, when dry apply matte clear acrylic. Make sure you dry them facing up so they dry evenly, flip side as you go.
As for afraid of too much grey and not look good, check out my army, its full of grey, with proper highlight, it will look god as any other color. That's it for now, I will post more later and good luck!
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Post by brocchus on Apr 3, 2013 13:50:58 GMT -5
macknightGreat looking army, you certainly know what you are talking about when it comes to painting! Thanks for the tips, a lot of that I knew already but there were some helpful tidbits which are appreciated. I am a big fan of Hobby Lobby, there is one on my way home from work and they offer a daily coupon of 40% off that they scan from my smartphone. I got an excellent Testor's file set that works wonders when cleaning mould lines and flash for next to nothing and am pretty well stocked on modelling tools. What are filbert brush sets? What brand of matte varnish do you recommend? What I am really looking for is a step-by-step dummy guide, base coat x, wash y, layer z, etc. I know it is a lot to ask and I am willing to... I dunno, send some bitz or hook someone up- I'll see what I can do. I'm not rich but I do appreciate people's time. Edit: If it helps, I will try to upload a pic of a generic Infantry model when I have time. I am at work right now.
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Post by macknight on Apr 3, 2013 17:30:13 GMT -5
The matte clear acrylic can be any brand really..
You want to have a basic of 4 layers, basecoat color(dark red for example), midtone color(medium red), highlight(red orange), wash(red or orange GW wash); change around the color to your desire.
Flesh/skin guide: basecoat black, tallarn flesh(dark flesh for black dudes), midtone(bronze flesh, dwarf flesh or (tan flesh for black dudes or skip), highlight(elf flesh, palid flesh for light skin women).
Eyes: paint white over the eye, black dot in the middle, use a very thin brush to circle the eye with black, thin layer of ice blue around the black for women eye liner; fix mistakes as you go. Ogryn flesh wash to blend the eye and skin. Teeth: white, then ogryn flesh wash.
Hair: pick your layer colors( dark brown base for example, mid tone brown, highlight light brown in some areas, wash of GW brown wash)
Think of painting as layers of color, too many people mistaken that and try to mix a certain color and apply it on, which end up being very flat. I do not wish to write a whole book on painting guardsmen and vehicle guide on a forum. The master class book from FW is worth it for more depth.
One last thing, coming from fantasy to 40k myself, the biggest difference is that 40k models are kinetic, so be careful about gluing everything, best to paint some individually and then glue in place; weapons are easily magnetized for swap option.
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Post by Adkenpachi on Apr 3, 2013 18:14:59 GMT -5
One question... Is ogryn flesh wash a new one or old one?
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Post by brocchus on Apr 3, 2013 18:25:22 GMT -5
None of my models have flesh, all of them are fully covered and wear gas masks. I know the basics of painting, I've painted two armies along with odds and ends like Blood Bowl, Mordheim, and Necromunda minis I will be more specific, it is the color schemes that drive me crazy. Which paint for the base coat, which to use for the wash, which to layer, which to highlight etc. I am competent enough with the basic techniques of painting such as layering etc., I just have to rip off color schemes from other sources. Is that a little more clear?
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Post by macknight on Apr 3, 2013 19:38:42 GMT -5
Ogryn flesh is the GW flesh wash of old I believe, not 100% sure.
To choose a color scheme, look at a color wheel, then decide camo or not on the pants. What you want is contrast, so no 2 dark colors for the scheme, or 2 light ones; typical is 1 light and 1 dark, then a variation of those color chosen.
To choose which color for the basecoat: you typically want the GW basecoat series of colors, as they are full of opaque pigment, typically a darker value of the color you've chosen. (example: I use Eshin grey for my Cadians)
Layer color: this is your mid tone color. (codex grey for my cadians)
Highlight color: lighter value of the color you've chosen, apply on edges. (fortress grey as my highlight for my cadians)
Wash: the GW wash most comparable to your scheme (watery nuln oil for my cadians), you also want to wash after every section separately, such as skin tone, fatigue, armor etc. NOT a big wash at the end.
Giving your army some differenciation is helpful to keep boredom away, subtle difference on the leather for example(simply by switching the basecoat of brown used), keep some things match as well, such as keeping all plasma blue etc.
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Post by brocchus on Apr 4, 2013 13:40:09 GMT -5
Don't worry about it, I'll hit up Google again. I know how to paint. I'm simply looking for a step-by-step color scheme.
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Post by Adkenpachi on Apr 4, 2013 14:20:28 GMT -5
Don't worry about it, I'll hit up Google again. I know how to paint. I'm simply looking for a step-by-step color scheme. Check the codex. Ive not got the newer ones but in my 2nd ed codex it has all the 'official" schemes... Or goto one of the 40k wiki sites. |
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Post by Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four on Apr 4, 2013 15:33:07 GMT -5
Decal advice: Invest in a set of MircoSet and MicroSol decal setting solutions!
To use them: Once the vehicle is ready for decals, apply gloss varnish to the area where the decal is going to be applied. One the varnish is dry and you are ready to apply the decals, brush a good amount of MicroSet onto the area. Prepare the decal, and then slide it off its backing onto the MicroSet. Get the decal positioned--using a soft brush soaked in the MicroSet, and once it's positioned carefully apply MicroSol to the decal.
The MicroSet prepares the surface so the decal will adhere strongly (a glossy surface is best for adhesion) and the MicroSol melts the substrate that the decal is printed on, and results in the decal looking like it had been painted on to the model. You may need to apply the MicroSol several times to get the substrate completely melted, and you need to be careful with the decal during the process so you don't rip it, but it's well worth the effort. After the decal has dried, you can then hit it with more gloss or matte varnish to seal the area.
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Post by brocchus on Apr 4, 2013 16:07:33 GMT -5
I found this- firstranksecondrank.blogspot.fr/2010/02/40k-tutorial-death-korps-of-krieg.htmlThe scheme is sound for the details like my packs, gas masks, goggles, boots, pouches, web gear etc. but I have issues with the largest parts- the fatigues and armor (helmet, flak, and rifle casings). 1) Is a base of Codex Gray, a Badab Black Wash, followed by a Codex Grey highlight really going to look good? I find it hard to believe those nice-looking fatigues came about from that simple procedure (minus the weathering). 2) I am using the Cadian Shock Troop models with Pig Iron Kolony Militia heads. I want to paint the helmets, flak armor, and rifle casing the same color, Vallejo German Grey, to bring the army together and give some nice consistency. What in the world would I shade and highlight with? It's a very dark gray. @trooper Thanks for the decal advice, it will come in handy. AdkenpachiI just got into 40k and only have the latex Codex which does not have any painting guides. Google was less fruitful than I hoped but I did manage to find something that helped quite a bit. |
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Post by Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four on Apr 4, 2013 16:57:58 GMT -5
@trooper Thanks for the decal advice, it will come in handy. You're welcome. Seriously the stuff is awesome. When properly used, afterwards the decals will be so well stuck on, and look so good, that the only way to remove them would be to go after them with a hobby knife and scrape them off, or strip the model. Oh, also, the decals will conform to oddly shaped surfaces as well.  |
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Post by Boobs McGee, Esquire on Apr 6, 2013 9:18:30 GMT -5
Mkay first of I wouldn't use codex grey as a base it isn't thick enough. Instead use mechanicus standard grey then over that layer your codex grey (or whatever your next darkest grey is) leaving the mechanicus only in the dark recesses then drybrush the 1:1 codex : your intermediate grey so only the the tips of the creases are covered in it then wash it with a thin wash of 1:3 null oil : agrax then you can come back if you want and add a very light edge highlight of codex only on the edges of the most pronounced edges. This is the colour scheme I used to do for my death korps and my death wing and looks pretty good as for the shoulder pads I suggest using the same as above but make sure the wash does not pool nd then add the markings to it eg red or orange to contrast with the dark armour
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Post by Boobs McGee, Esquire on Apr 6, 2013 9:22:20 GMT -5
The bluish tinge could probably be attained but disregarding the last 2 steps and instead drybrushing etherium blue the wash it then only a little drybrush of the very edge of the creases try one with each of these and chose whichever I personally use the first but I have used the second before now with limited success
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Post by brocchus on Apr 9, 2013 11:49:14 GMT -5
Boobs McGee, Esquire You recommend drybrushing over layering and highlighting on the fatigues? Typically I only drybrush on textures like fur, at least for my Fantasy Battle armies.
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