Trooper 1974's Stuff (Ruh-roh! 11-23-16)

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

Thanks!

Yeah, the netting is soaked down with PVA and water, which causes it to conform really closely to the hulls, but it's the trade off for having the netting be resilient enough to not break or flake apart while handling the models. I think the way around this might be to add more gauze layers to build up the thickness so the underlying hull details don't stand out like boobies in a wet t-shirt contest (Heh. ) but that runs the risk of making the netting just look like a blob. I'm quite pleased with the color, though. In olden days I used to wash the netting with Chestnut ink to shade it, but now using Devlan Mud gives so much of a richer, dirtier color.

I've also pretty much gotten the new MoO and Harker finished off, except for highlighting their frag grenades (my pot of Scorpion green dried out and I don't think I've got another one handy), and finishing their bases.

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

"If it bleeds we can kill it."

[mccaptain]

Looks good. You should paint the inside of the demolisher cannon black.

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

May 7, 2014 18:09:50 GMT -5 mccaptain said:

Looks good. You should paint the inside of the demolisher cannon black.

Thanks!

I used to paint the inside of the Demolisher cannons black, but then years ago while futzing around with a 1:35 Sturmtiger model, whose rocket cannon/mortar is what inspired the Demolisher cannon, I noticed that if I put the shell inside the breach you could clearly see its nose inside the cannon barrel (since it's a huge, long shell stuffed inside a relatively short barrel). Since I've got the old 2nd generation metal Demolisher bits on these guys I notice when looking at them that the back section of the barrel is convex, which to me screamed that that's the tip of the shell already loaded into the breech and ready to fire, so I paint is silver to represent the nose of the shell. There's a bit too much direct light in that picture going directly down the barrel and the reflection washes out the detail somewhat.

[marbo]

That mmo and harker they are beautiful

[mccaptain]

Ah. I've always wondered about that... I think that's a good point! Maybe paint it a brass color with a redd ring or some sort of shell marking. Make it a distinctive color and set it apart from the cannon. That way it will look intentional (which it is) and not like a lazy oversight (which it's not). I may very well do that to my demolishers tomorrow!

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

Thanks, Marbo!

McCaptain: that's a really cool idea! I just may have to try it, although maneuvering the brush around inside the barrel will probably be more than a wee bit fiddly. Still, it'd look awesome if it can be pulled off.

[yvain]

If you are still fiddling with the Wyvern, here was my solution. I used friction like you suggested for the ammo boxes. I use some green stuff in the bore of mortars themselves and deposited a magnet. If you look on the mortars there is a 2 rings on the barrel, I place the magnets in line of the second. Then I fashioned some green stuff shells and super glue them to the mortar tips. You can use the base of the hydra autocannon as a size template. Ended up working pretty well.

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

May 8, 2014 16:55:58 GMT -5 yvain said:

If you are still fiddling with the Wyvern, here was my solution. I used friction like you suggested for the ammo boxes. I use some green stuff in the bore of mortars themselves and deposited a magnet. If you look on the mortars there is a 2 rings on the barrel, I place the magnets in line of the second. Then I fashioned some green stuff shells and super glue them to the mortar tips. You can use the base of the hydra autocannon as a size template. Ended up working pretty well.

Sounds like a cool solution! Do you have photos? If so, share them here please so we can see what you did!

[yvain]

I got to put some finishing touches on it (dry brush, touch ups, some more shade). I will try to get some up when it complete.

[cheminhaler]

Nice freehand on the PAYBACK heavy bolter, Trooper. The new catas are looking great.

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

Thanks, Chem! I must admit to having been going a bit cross-eyed at the point I free-handed Payback's name--I'd been up all night working on these guys, and it was the final thing I added at around 5:30 AM. Luckily it turned out fairly neatly, so I didn't have to re-do it.

However, now I do have to go back and re-do all of my previously completed 'Chan (and Ogryn, and Commisars, advisors, etc.) bases that were done with green-painted sand to conform to the new style (XV-88 rims, Stirland mud, and static grass) that I'm using. It's going to be a chore...

[cheminhaler]

Rebasing everything? It might be easier to just do the new stuff in the older style. Unless you need to match them/ ally them with your big walkers too.

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

Thing is, I no longer like the older style. It's stale and dated, and I think my minis will pop even more with a uniform employment of the new style of basing used consistently throughout my IG collection...

(I won't even mention my old style-based Blood Angels as I've had no desire to play them since Mat Ward molested them with a poop-smeared stick in the last codex for them.)

[yvain]

I probably asked this already, but how do you do the lettering? Is it completely free hand with a small brush? I can never seem to replicate letters right. I have been tempted to try a micron pen, just haven't bought it yet.

I haven't based any of my models yet though I have all the materials. I telling myself the job is pretty big I will do it later and then I just build more stuff and the job gets bigger. I have some citadel mud texture paint, some static grass, some water effects, and some other little details. Is there a trick to applying the grass? I have heard about using an static grass applicator, do you need one or did you just use the glue dip shake method?

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

May 9, 2014 16:56:42 GMT -5 yvain said:

I probably asked this already, but how do you do the lettering? Is it completely free hand with a small brush? I can never seem to replicate letters right. I have been tempted to try a micron pen, just haven't bought it yet.

I haven't based any of my models yet though I have all the materials. I telling myself the job is pretty big I will do it later and then I just build more stuff and the job gets bigger. I have some citadel mud texture paint, some static grass, some water effects, and some other little details. Is there a trick to applying the grass? I have heard about using an static grass applicator, do you need one or did you just use the glue dip shake method?

Yeah, I just use a fine detail brush (or sometimes a fine point Sharpie for black lettering) and freehand it. I've heard Micron pens recommended as well.

I looked into static grass applicators (and making one since the commercially available ones are ridiculously expensive) when I was working on my RoB tiles, and decided they weren't worth it. For bases I usually just spread some PVA and then either dip the base into the grass and tap off the excess, or I'll pick up pinches of the grass with my finger and thumb and sprinkle it over the base. For really large areas, in lieu of a fancy applicator, just get yourself a wire basket kitchen sifter, pour the grass into it, and then tap the side of the sifter as you move it back and forth over the areas where you've applied PVA.

[yvain]

Thanks for the info. One day I will have to get around to it. Maybe after the Bullgyns and Stormtroopers are finished.

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

Now that voting is over I can release the full spread of my project for the most recent Golden Guardsman competition:

WIP:




















































Finished photos:












































This Knight was converted and painted to match the Knight that the Ostrogoth's Chapter Master, Fritz, was seen piloting in episodes 70 and 71 of Flash-Gitz's "Regular Marine." I'm still working on building a fisty-arm holding the Power Nutcrackers, but wasn't able to get it completed in time for the competition, so I just went with the Reaper Chainsword. The Chainsword arm is magnetized, though, so once I get the fisty-arm finished, I will be able to pop the Chainsword off and replace it to represent the "True GRORY," of Fritz's ride.

[BG. Foster]

I almost voted for you Trooper but could turn away from the use of a hamster ball.

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

Noted. I shall try to incorporate moar... Hamster ball the next time I participate in a GG.

In other news, I think I've figured out how to rig the Wyvern's Stormshard mortar barrels so I can flop between Wyvern and Hydra without worrying about them going missing. I ran a length of paperclip down them that will stick to the magnet that holds the cannon housings together. Just waiting for reinforcing super glue to dry on them. In the meantime, I've started priming the Chimera chassis, gun platform, crew, hull weapons, Hydra ac barrels, and ammo hopper bits.

[yarrick22]

Nic pics Trooper. I like the use of a slayed tyranid on the base

~Yarrick22

[BG. Foster]

I need to paint more and talk about it less. I might get an entry in myself then, lol.

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

The dead 'Nid (and the toxin sacs nailed to the Knight's shoulder plate) are all references to the fate that the Ostrogoth's chapter-planet, Ostrogar, suffered at the claws of the 'Nids and aided by Ultramarine-imposters, and the resulting rampage that Fritz went on in some of the early episodes of "Regular Marine."

[danesk]

That orange and white looks ace on that model! And as a player that has been ripped to shreds by the 'nids more than once I really appriciate the bug underneath the foot

[Trooper One-Nine-Seven-Four]

Thanks!

One of the most fun parts of this project was creating the entrails spilling out of the Carnifex where it had been torn in half. I used a combination of stereo wire (for the tubey bits) and tissue paper (for the fleshy bits) liberally soaked with watered down PVA, and then stained with purple wash, and highlighted with various shades of purple before being coated with 'Ardcoat to make them look all glistening and wet.